This pasta is a variation on a more traditional cream sauce, but uses either goat’s yogurt or chèvre for lower lactose. Buy the best smoked fish you can find; use cow’s-milk yogurt (or Greek) (or ricotta!) if you can’t find goat’s-milk and don’t mind the lactose; and don’t stress about what vegetables (if any) you include in the finished product.
Yum.
I used 9 oz. of pasta and 3/4 lb. of smoked salmon because that felt about right for 3 hungry people, and this amount of sauce coated all of that nicely. Both the pasta and fish quantities are very adjustable, of course — I’d just say that if you adjust both of them up substantially, you consider making more sauce to go with. But it’s not a strict proportion.
When I made this recently, I added 1 bulb of roasted fennel, and thought it added great flavor. I’d do 2 in the future, but this is strictly optional.